FAQ
Frequently Asked Questions
Here is some information on FAQs which may help you.
The information is largely provided by members.
The MT Riders Club can take no responsibility for the accuracy of the information.
The questions have been broken down into sections for ease of use:
1 Background-thinking about buying
2 Just bought bike
3 About the forum
4 Carbs and exhaust
5 Engine
6 Brakes
7 Wheels and sprockets
8 Electrical
1 Background-thinking about buying
As an aid to understanding MT’s and what goes wrong with them, here are some of the
MT ‘Tee Shirts’ you can acquire throughout your ownership of an MT.
1 My carb overflow is pouring out fuel
2 My airbox has a puddle of fuel in it
2a My petrol tank and carb bowl were full of rust and sand.
3 My metal plug cap arcs in rain
4 My oil gushed out of front tube all over garage floor4a I put too much oil in, now my airfilter is soaked and oil is covering the engine
5 Skinned my knuckles getting carb out
6 I struggled for ages to fit rear wheel
7 I changed cambelt on side of the road
8 I washed bike, now it won’t go
9 I found bodge repair from previous owner
10 I didn’t realise I’d knocked run switch
10a My run switch shorted out in the rain
11 My lights and horn have stopped working
11a I didn’t realise I’d knocked blackout switch
12 I had brake fade
12a What’s the best way to bleed the brakes?
13 I did carb mod and now have a flat spot
13a I did the carb mod and it now goes like stink
14 I broke my key in the steering lock
15 I bought an Original spare, then found a member selling one for a fraction of the price
15a I’m building up a supply of spares
16 I agonised over which colour paint to use, what shade of drab olive should my MT be?
16a The future is bright, the future is GREEN 16b Mines the green one.
16c Anyone want a part-used tin of the wrong colour paint?.
17 I’ve broken my clutch cable but did roadside repair.
18 I’ve routed a spare clutch cable in place
19 I’ve had a broken throttle cable but did roadside repair.
20. I didn’t find neutral today…
21 Pull clutch in, select 1st bike jumps forward 2ft and stalls.
21a Change your oil mate and just run your bike
22 Mainstand springs always come in twos
24 My reserve is smaller than yours
24a I ran out of fuel today
24b I saw an MT350 fuel tap for auction, it said NO RESERVE…
25 They’re faster in red!
26 Ow, my fecking shin.
26a What does the long handle on my 350 engine do…
26b My Armstrong starts second kick,….Does yours?
26c I kickstarted my sidestand this morning.
26d Never kick start near a crowd!
27 Quick get Bike gear. Sh”t it cut out again.
28 My insurance company thinks a MT350 is an Armstrong
30 I didn’t know the bike had a REVERSE gear till I tried going UP Welsh lanes
31 What’s TP ?
32 What are those pointy things on the front of my MT350 handlebars?
33 Where does my MT500 pump fit ?
34 So the odometer is in km and the speedo is in MPH ??????????????
34 What is ACCS ?
35 So the red light isn’t an oil pressure warning light?
36 Parked the MT between all shiny Road Kings and Fat Bobs at bike rally and caused most interest and confusion with the “coolest Harley ever”.
37 Where does this wire go..? More to the point what does it do?!
38 Wiring diagram says blue, loom is yellow??
39 Bought an MT, then another….
39a My name is ‘xxxxxx’ and I’m an MToholic.
39b How do I tell the Mrs I’ve just bought an/another MT?
39c I’m spending more time in the garage covered in oil/grease than with the family.
39d I’m going to strip it down and rebuild it…
40. Welcome to the club mate
45. You don’t need a f*****g chain tensioner !
46 You DO need a f*****g chain tensioner
48….where did I put that bloody spare plug??? I had it a minute ago
45 No its not WW2
46. Does anyone have a spare rear wheel?
47 Yes those panniers are home made.
49 The answer’s in FAQs Mate!
50. MT500 riders dress to the left.
51 Lightbulb fixer….
51(a) Camping and drinking lager from cans around a fire? Not for me!
52 My other bikes an airplane.
53 To posh to push? Bunker it!
54 Sprag says “clunk”
55 (500 owner) my other bikes a Harley
58 ELLRIDER! Stop twisting my throttle!
60 Did you get my PM about your free parts?
62 why can’t I see any oil in the window on the side of the engine
63 I have oil in my sight glass – is that OK?
64 My bike is fecked – anyone here speak English. Can be written in French, Turkish, Spanish, Italian or Welsh if ya need the points on the scrabble board.
65 I’ll bet my tank cap’s tighter than yours
66 Snapped exhaust studs todays-Doh. 66a How do you remove snapped studs?
1.1 How capable are the bikes off-road?
These bikes were specified as a General Purpose Motorcycle. They were fitted with two types
of tyres the Metzler Enduro Sahara 3 or the Michelin T63. Both of these are on-off road tyres,
the Sahara being the more road biased tyre. T63’s are becoming more difficult to find.
They have off-road capability, the MT500 having that bit more torque than the MT350. First and
second gears are quite low, MT350 performance spec is quoted as max 60 degree ascent, i.e. 1 in
1.6666, ground clearance 10 inches, ford up to 12 inches (but have been a lot deeper) and can mount
a 15 inch vertical step. MT350 Pannier mounts at the front and bars running up from the foot-pegs
upwards to the rear of the bike afford a lot of protection should the bike be dropped. With regard to
their state of tune, the word ‘low’ springs to mind, the melodramatic folk use terms such as un-burstable or bomb-proof.
The spec of the MT350 is to be able to carry 2 laden soldiers if necessary. The MT350 may have rear pegs fitted to the side bars. Some have fitted rear pegs to the MT500 using various methods. Double seats which require modification to the rear rack, or rack mounted pads are available.
So they will get you around most places, but bear in mind that the military used Honda XR 250s when they wanted to do serious off- road work. For an example of what they CAN do, if pressed, see http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rWrG5vSiBWw there are other clips relating to MT350 and MT500, so you can see the performance capability.
1.2 What fuel consumption can I expect?
Fuel Consumption: MT350 Approx 55-65 mpg in standard trim. You may achieve more than this, for example four bikes with the same carb mods and on the same long trip fully laden achieved 80mpg, 80mpg, 70mpg, and 50mpg, respectively.
According to the MT500 tech handbook, the tank range is stated at 150 miles, and the fuel consumption at 53 MPG. But other parts of the book quote a range of only 100miles. One MT500 rider reports getting only 30mpg.
MT350e range is 200-250km. BUT the reserve range is exceedingly small, you may be lucky to get 8 miles, or even zero miles if petrol has bypassed the reserve level.
There is some debate about the effects of doing the carb mods, changing the gearing, using an iridium spark plug etc, but it all depends what you’re doing. Cruising, steady speed on smooth roads, with road biased tyres will be vastly different to riding on knobblies through claggy mud and up mountainsides.
1.3 Where can I buy a bike from?
See Buyers Guide on forum header.
Just bought bike
2.1 How do I MOT/ register my bike?
The essence of this is, get your bike MOT’d on its frame number- you can ride it to a pre-booked test without plates but you must have insurance, insure it on its frame number (N.B. Most/all companies will only do this for a limited time period-2 weeks).
Next, go to your local DVLA office clutching your MOD 654 Release form/Date in Service letter or Dating certificate (available via Bunker for a small club fee); MOT pass certificate; your insurance certificate; proof of identity-passport, proof of residence-utility bill and a fistful of dollars (£88) you can then apply to register your bike. You may wish to get a V55/5 form before you go to the DVLA office, but it’s not essential. You then get documentation in the post to allow you to get a number plate made up and you’re away. You may have to submit your bike for inspection-the DVLA may ask you to do that. From their website:-You can drive your vehicle to and from the pre-arranged appointment before the vehicle is registered. http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/Motoring/BuyingAndSellingAVehicle/ImportingAndExportingAVehicle/DG_4022583
NB: Some people have had problems with the DVLA not understanding how to register these bikes. Copy and print out the following green text and take with you to show the staff, it is also printed on the reverse of the MTRC Dating certificate (see next section)
There is now a policy for the Armstrong MT500 and Harley Davidson MT350e which has been issued to local offices.
If you are unsure, please call the following colleague for confirmation, Mrs Richards is very happy to talk you through it:
Rhion Richards
Casework &Specialist Advice
Zone1/D16
Policy and External Communication
DVLA
01792 788300
2.1a What if I don’t have any paperwork for it?
Bunker is an authorised DVLA dating agent for the Armstrong MT500 and the Harley MT350e. He can issue a dating certificate for either machine if you provide the following:
Photo of each side of the bike
Photo of headstock identity:
MT500 has a manufactures plate (include a written copy of these details)
MT350 has a stamped 17 digit VIN (include a written copy of these details)
Photo of engine number (top of crank case) (include a written copy of these details)
Copy of MOT certificate
Donation to club for £15
2.2 My Insurance company doesn’t recognise an MT350, what can I do?
Some insurance companies do not list the HD MT350, but they do list an Armstrong 350 and are happy to quote against that they supply a policy saying Harley Davidson. Other companies have a facility to quote for an unlisted bike, taking details such as value, engine size, age and they will then create a policy for a HD. Footman James offer a club discount to forum members.
2.3 Where can I get parts from?
Parts are readily available for the MT350e, having being in military service until April 2009. Some MT500 parts are more difficult to source.
You can
Put an ad In the Wanted section of the forum. Someone may have the part you need. Apply usual buying caution and read the item description before you buy.
Keep an eye on e-bay there are usually parts up for sale, but apply usual e-bay caution
Go to the Commercial section for a list of suppliers,
Main suppliers for bike parts
Force Motorcycles http://www.forcemotorcycles.com/index.asp
Note KL Motorsport are now part of Force but their website is still available for ordering http://klmotorsport.com/default.aspx
LMS http://www.lmslichfieldltd.com/
Peter Knight Powersport for engine parts http://www.rotax.co.uk/
Some components are available from Apophisparts http://www.apophisparts.co.uk/
Some components are common with other bikes, providing a far wider range of suppliers and there are specialists such as
Cables and brake parts are available directly from Venhill http://www.venhill.co.uk/
Plugs, Plug caps, HT lead are available the Green Spark Plug Co http://www.gsparkplug.com/shop/
And you can buy a few items from the Forum SHOP http://shoply.com/shop/mtrcshop/
2.4 Which oil should I use and what, any checks should I do?
The official texts always quote military codes, but mineral-based 15/40w oil is the ‘correct’ oil, some riders use 10w/40diesel engine oils. Don’t use synthetic oil or you’ll get clutch slip.
Peter Knight, Rotax specialist, recommends
For the 350 and 500: HD 15W50, 560+: HD 35W40.
Some riders find Halfords classic 15W50 works for them.
2.5 Just picked up my bike, what servicing should I do?
Before you ride your bike make sure you check it over. Jobs may have been left half completed by the military (I found my sump nut under the seat.) so check all nuts and bolts for security.
The items listed below are straightforward. If you haven’t done any servicing before, it may be best to ask a more knowledgeable friend to help you, but if you’ve changed engine oil and bled brakes on anything before, you’ll be fine. Within the Tutorials section there are downloadable manuals and guides covering Oil change, Cam belt change and brake stripping and more. Also it’s worth looking at the Commercial parts list so you know what parts should be there when you do the job, and it helps avoid confusion if you can quote the part number you require when talking to suppliers.
Be aware that the bikes will probably have been filled up from jerry cans at some stage and will have collected rust, dirt, sand in the fuel system and everywhere else. Also, they may have been standing outside for a long time, months or years so condensation, rainwater/melt water may have also found its way into the fuel system.
Oil change. Have a container ready for when you take out the drain plug from the front tube behind the front wheel- it can take you by surprise. Note- if you take your oil cap off to find no dipstick attached to it, get out your long-nosed pliers and a torch-you’ll probably find that it has dropped off and is wedged in the frame.
New oil filter, behind gearbox sprocket cover, take the rear brake lever off first. Champion X305 oil filter or equivalent fits and is the correct item
Clean the primary filter, the gauze oil strainer at the foot of the oil tank and the two magnetic plugs, one on the frame tube and one on the sump behind the sump guard. It is worthwhile removing the sump plate to clean it and the strainer that sits above it. DO NOT OVERFILL-put two litres in first then run engine, then top up. Too much and the oil will find its way out of everywhere. Oil can work its way up the clutch cable and go all over your leg and wreck your brand new airfilter. It is important to check oil is returning OK after changing the oil and main filter. Open your oil cap and see if you can see oil spurting from pipe pointing forwards within the neck of the filler pipe. If not the oil line may need bleeding.
It’s best to renew the cam belt to be safe especially if it’s been stood for a while. It’s quite simple to do, see tutorial, and they’re not expensive. You’ll need a crank locking bolt. Also, locate and clean out the drain hole at the bottom of the cambelt cover.
Clean out the debris in the fuel tank, which, you may then want to use POR-15 or Petseal to seal your tank. Also, strip and clean the fuel tap. Clean the fuel line. Some riders recommend discarding the fuel cut off valve -the little plastic canister inline on the fuel line which is designed to cut off the fuel if the bike is dropped, and fit a normal length of fuel hose. (A lot of the army and RAF enduro teams remove the cut-off valves as they can stick closed and cut off your fuel supply.). Ideally replace the cut-off valve with a small fuel filter, this will hopefully prevent any dirt getting into your carb in future.
Take the float bowl off your carb, tip out any sediment and spray with carb cleaner. Replace the four screws holding your float bowl on with Allen headed screws- it’ll allow you to clean the float bowl out in future with the carb in situ. If you’re confident, strip and clean your carb. If you’re not, then leave well alone if it seems to run OK. Inspect/replace carb rubbers to engine and air box. Inspect/renew air filter and spark plug gap-7mm (0.027in).
Check the nylon pad on the centre stand which tensions the chain for wear.
Check chain (should have 55-65mm free play when on centre stand) and lube.
Change brake fluids, front and rear. NB These can be awkward to bleed.
Check spokes, tyres, brake pads, hydraulic hoses.
Check/renew rim tapes, inner tubes and rear rim lock (some riders remove this for road use)
Check brakes, lights/indicators, horn, spokes, tool box retaining straps, and centre stand springs (2)
Grease swing-arm pivot.
Check that the kill switch works.
Inspect steering head bearings as they are prone to wear. Lift front end clear of ground and move bars to and fro and feel for any notches, then pull and push front wheel towards and away from the frame to look for play.
Clean all electrical connectors. Make sure that your earth connections, especially the one by the horn are clean and give a good earth.
Most riders recommend removing the metal shrouded plug cap, as this can be a source of problems, and replacing with a plastic plug cap such as . http://www.gsparkplug.com/shop/spark-plugs/spark-plug-caps/ngk-xd05f-red.html
Renew HT lead. Some leads are moulded into the coil, but can be removed with patience. Be sure to use high temp sealant upon re-fitting. Check that your coil is fitted with the HT lead facing towards the back of the bike- some have been found to be fitted with the HT lead at the front, more exposed to rain. What seem like carb issues are often diagnosed as electrical problems in this area-ignore these checks at your peril.
Change fork oil to a decent motorcycle specific 15 W. (Enduro teams use heavier oil to stiffen up the front)
Strip down and clean Brake callipers, see Tutorial. Bleeding the brakes from dry can require patience, and may not bleed at all if dirt is stopping the pistons moving freely. Beware, they have a ball-bearing (7/32”?) just below the bleed nipple.
Inspect/renew wheel and sprocket drive bearings – see Tutorial for front wheel bearing change.
Lube/renew throttle/choke/clutch/enrichener (choke) cables
Check valve clearances.
Check the bottom fork yokes not cracked.
2.6 Just done first service and now my starter won’t turn engine-any clues?
The cam-belt cover has short and long screws; you’ve probably put a long one in the front hole, jamming the starter gear. NB This bolt should have an o-ring and silicon sealant. If you’ve had the tank off, make sure that you haven’t dislodged any connectors putting it back.
2.7 How do you fit centre stand springs?
There are a couple of techniques used here. Get a spring puller: put the spring in a vice and bend it, putting washers between the coils to spread the spring and make it long enough to go on: tie a few loops of string around the end of the spring, then put a pry bar within the loop and using a small block of wood, lever against the cross tube to stretch the spring.
When you’ve got them on, secure them with a tether, so that if they do come off their mountings at least they won’t drop off.
For the side stand some people fit the spring to the stand first, then fit the securing bolt.
2.8 What tools/spares should I carry?
Standard tool kit, which is:-
Air pressure gauge
Screw driver blade – combination
Grip for screw driver
Plug remover
Tool bag
Ring wrench 22/24 mm
Fork wrench 17/19 mm
Spark plug wrench 18 mm -
Valve gauge .05 mm
Fork wrench 11/13 mm
Fork wrench 10/13 mm
Wrench clutch adjustment
Wrench 5, int. hex screw (5mm Allen key)
Wrench 6, int. hex screw (6mm Allen key)
Wrench 8, int. hex screw (8mm Allen key)
Tyre lever (qty2)
Tommy bar
Puncture repair kit
“C” wrench rear shock absorber (qty 2)
Spark plug, cam-belt, crank locking bolt, spare front tube, zip ties, wire, clutch cable (ideally already routed), paper clip, small torch, angled tyre valve adapter(so you can pump tyres up at a garage as they are too difficult/impossible to get at with their pumps).
2.9 What is the correct colour and type of paint?
According to Army records MT350s should be painted Army/Nato Green IRR, but seeing as the IRR Infra Red Reflecting quality only lasts 6 months or so, they should have been repainted. Some have, many haven’t. Some have been painted for desert use etc
In terms of a match to the original, RAL6020 is recommended by some and is a good match. Others have used RAL 6003 and 6022(Olive Drab).
MT500 spec. Etch primed to DTD 5555 A, Epoxy primed to DTD 5567 A, Polyurethane finish to STS 5580, Colour BS641 Drab Olive Green
You can have your bike powder coated, spray or brush paint. Paints people have used; Nitromors for stripping plastic; Krylon spray cans for a quick and good finish on plastic and frame, dries fast too; Rustoleum; Prontapaint (you can specify the RAL code); Fascinating finishes; Jotun Conseal; BBQ paint for silencers; Hycote VHT for exhausts; UPOL hi build primer and Sperex satin bike black (engine); POR-15 http://auto.frost.co.uk/search?w=motorcycle or Petseal to seal your fuel tank. There are many Military surplus outfits that also sell ‘Nato’ paint, but they don’t normally quote a RAL code and there have been many shades used on different vehicles over the years.
Some bikes were painted Red- no code available for that, some desert sand colour, believed to be BS 361 Light Stone. For completeness Forestry commission and Sheffield Parks CV500s were white.
Some say that Black is the fastest colour others that Blue is best and paint accordingly.
2.10 How do I find out about my bike’s history?
The contract code on the left hand side of your MT350 frame is LV2A/067 – Item nn. nn refers to the sub-contract and goes from 1-7a, and 15 (any other bids?), with some 1a’s, 5b’s etc along the way. The lower the sub-contract code number, the earlier your bike.
To establish your bike’s military history, you need to supply any details you have, Military reg , Frame number , MOD 654 etc
If your registration number is up to KH, then you apply to the RLC Museum , complete with a cheque for £25.
(NB This is for B vehicles, I don’t know about A vehicles. For clarity- A is Armour, B is Soft Skin )
The contact
Erika Spencer, Archive Assistant
erikaspencer@rlcmuseum.com
Tel 01252 833371
Address
Vehicle Enquiries
The Royal Logistic Corps Museum,
Princess Royal Barracks,
Deepcut,
Camberley,
Surrey GU16 6RW
For B vehicles after KH. Watch this space- the guy who used to do this at Chetwynd Barracks, Beeston has retired and the role has moved location. Wait Out.
You receive from them a copy of screen prints from the Merlin computer system showing which unit had the bike and when. If you’re lucky, it may also be quote the engine number, when last inspected. A bit of Googling and you might be able to find out where the units were serving when they had your bike.
2.11 Can I lower the ride height of my MT350?
Yes you can push the front suspension up higher and have up to 4 inches showing above the top yoke. The majority of MT350’s have twin spring rear shocks. Shock absorbers for MT500 and some Single spring MT350s are shorter and lowers the back an inch or so.
If you want a ‘low-rider’ you can fit 13inch Hagon shocks and bring the back down 5 inches, and there are options in between.
Alternatively, you can shorten springs or get a set of shorter ones made up, try Paul Savage 01257 521666, or Harris Performance http://www.harris-performance.com/index.htmlwho refurb and rebuild Ohlins to meet your requirements. To work out what free length of spring you want measure the extended length of spring then get a fat friend to sit on your bike to compress the shocks to the length you need to get the right height so you can touch the floor, then measure the length of the spring again. Subtract the second measurement from the first. Dismantle the shocks and cut this length from the spring (or get shorter springs made) then reassemble.
Remember, if you want to take both shocks off at the same time, you must support the bike if it is on the side stand. It is not essential if the bike is on the needed on centre stand as the weight is all on the front.
If you plan to fit Avon Distanzias the 4.10 x18 tyre smaller in diameter than the 4.00 x18 and lowers the back. It only makes 1/2″ difference in ride height, but if you are struggling with the seat height, and need a new tyre, it’s worth considering.
If you change the shock-absorbers and radically reduce the height of an MT350, you’ll also have to shorten the side-stand, and getting it onto the centre-stand may be far more difficult unless that is also shortened.
Seats can be re-sculpted to lower the seat height for the shorter leg.
Also worth noting that if you fit longer MT350 springs to an MT500, your bike will be less stable on a normal length side-stand.
Another popular modification is to add fork spring pre-load spacers to firm up the front end and improve the handling.
2.12 What is the VIN Plate format?
Frame ID Numbers – 1981 and Later
Example: 1HD1AAK11BYO13478
The frame number is broken
down like this:
1 HD 1 AA K 1 1 B Y 013278
1HD6RLT18TYO13478
1st = Country of origin
2 & 3rd = Manufacturer
4th = Weight Class
5 & 6th = Manufacturers model code/ designation
7th = Engine displacement code
8th = Introduction date
9th = Check digit
10th = Year code
11th = Place of manufacture
1 = Made in U.S.A.
HD = Harley Davidson
6 = Weight Class (1 = Heavyweight, 4 = Lightweight, 6 = Military (assumed)[/color], 8 = Sidecar)
RL = Model Designation (RL = MT350)
T = Engine Displacement(S = 500 MT, T = 350 MT)
1 = Introduction Date (1 = Regular Introduction, 2 = Mid-Year (January), 3 = California Special, 4 = Daytona (March))
8 = Check Digit (to verify VIN accuracy – a mathematical result from the sum all of numbers divided by 11 – exact detail is on forum)
T = Model Year (P = 1993, R = 1994, S = 1995, T = 1996, U = 1997, V = 1998, X = 1999, Y = 2000)
Y = Plant of Manufacture (York, PA) T = Tomahawk, WI, J = Milwaukee, WI
The HD MT350e VIN changed in 1995
All models 1994 (code Letter R) start with 1 HD 4 RLT etc.
all models 1995 to 1997 (code letter S, T, V) start with 1HD 6 RLT etc
2.13 How can I snap my ignition key in half ?
Answer. Put it in the steering lock then move the handlebars. BEWARE
3 About the forum
3.1 What club meetings are there?
There is an annual meet, in 2008 and 2009 it was at the Uttoxeter Vintage Japanese Bike Show, for 2010 and 2011 it was at Stafford in April. In 2009, 2010, 2011 there have been club green-laning events in North Wales; in 2010 and 2011 an off-road event in South Wales; in May 2011 a road trip following the course of the Pennine Way; and in October 2011 an off-road event in Wye. Hardy MT riders attend the Dragon Rally held by the North Wales Conwy bike club in early February. Also, there are local events and ride-outs posted on the forum, so keep logging in.
3.2 Where can I find information/ advice about………. ANY PROBLEM?
You may find that the question you have has already been answered or information is available from parts lists or manuals held on the site.
In the club’s Manuals & Papers and Tutorials sections store there are over 50 documents or descriptions covering Operating manual/maintenance schedule/Parts lists/Wiring diagram/ Dellorto/ Mikuni VM/ H-D CV carb/ Rotax manuals. Also there are tutorials on Cam belt/brakes/CV carb mod/Electrical Testing/Front wheel bearing/Oil change/Sprag clutch replacement and a host of other topics.
If you can’t find your answer here, try using the ’Search’ facility –top right of screen.
If you can’t find the answer or don’t understand the information then ask a question on the forum. If you do want to ask a question, put a meaningful title and please try to give the basics and some background.
So rather than
“Title: Help:
Description: My bike cuts out.”
Try to be a bit more specific e.g.
“Title: MT500- Engine cuts out when hot:
Description: I have an MT500 with a standard Amal carb, it fires up fine from cold second kick every time, runs fine for 20 minutes before the engine first splutters then dies and won’t re-start until it cools down. I’ve tried changing, the coil HT lead and spark plug, what else should I look at?”
With regard to other sites, the MT350 uses a standard H-D CV carb made by Keihin. A Google search on H-D carbs will find lots of sites.
For advice on fixing a motorbike, this site is easy to read and comprehensive http://www.dansmc.com/mc_repaircourse.htm
Or
4 Carbs and exhaust
4.1 How do I stop fuel leaking out of my MT350 carburettor?
This is a common problem, usually caused by dirt being dragged into the carb, preventing the fuel shut off valve sealing properly. As well as fuel pouring out of the overflow pipe, it may also seep into your air-box and collect in there. If you’re lucky you may get away with doing nothing more than tapping the side of the carb, or riding your bike a bit more to dislodge the dirt. But if you’re not that lucky then drain and take off your float bowl. Give it a good clean with carb cleaner and squirt some cleaner around the needle valve above the float. Then check to see if your air filter is soaked in fuel, if so air dry. With luck this will fix the problem- you may have to do this a few times before all of the dirt is out of the system! If you haven’t fitted an in-line fuel filter, you might re-consider and fit one to prevent having to do this again. Best practice is to switch your fuel tap to Off when not in use, just in case.
If the above doesn’t fix the problem, you need to check the float level and or the needle valve. If the float level is set too high, then it will not cut the fuel supply off before it reaches the overflow level. If the needle valve is worn it may not seal properly- you may be able to dress the needle or lap it to remove any ridges, if not replace the needle valve.
If a sharp tap fixes your problem , but you haven’t cleaned your tank, petcock and fuel line, it may be worthwhile to doing it to avoid this happening again.
4.2 Sticky Throttle cables
It’s an MOT failure if the throttle fails to fully return when released or the throttle opens when moving from lock to lock. Things to check are friction in the throttle grip, cable routing, cable fraying, cable adjustment and carb. Have you tightened the bark busters recently? Does it change with the handlebars in different positions or is it the same wherever the bars are? If it is the same have you tried it with the cable removed? If it still does it, it may be a diaphragm/slide problem. If it’s an MT350 with a CV carb, what’s the condition of the spring in the carb that pushes on the slide? They can weaken after a while which can stop the slide from fully closing.
Throttle cables shouldn’t go around the headstock unless there is a lot of surplus length to get rid of, run throttle cable on the MTs down the offside of the frame and zip tie in place. Check you haven’t put the rubber boot on too far as this can stick and jam the throttle open.
Don’t oil cables with WD40, it thickens up in time and becomes sticky, get hold of some graphite oil in an aerosol, it has flat molecules and so doesn’t go sticky. Do this and you’ll never need a replacement speedo cable again-apparently!
Venhill have good quality standard cables for the MT 350/500 listed but will make them up to your measurements if you require anything different, they make to order, so it takes 3 or four days. If you need one tomorrow, go to the commercial suppliers will probably have them in stock and may post same day.
4.3 How can I make my bike go faster?
The standard MT350 set up is quite a low state of tune and leaves scope for improvement. See Technical/Manuals and Papers section on the forum. For the standard MT350 H-D Keihin CV carb, there are a few modifications- carefully it- screw remove the factory fitted plug to enable you to get to the mixture screw, and adjust in then out 2.5turns, drill out the carb slide to 1/8 inch, put a washer or two under the needle to raise it 1.3-1.5mm.. Some riders have increased the pilot jet from a 40 to a 42 and main from a 160 to a 165. You can find these documented on the web and a search of YouTube looking for CV carb may find videos as well. Bike specific items- cut the top off the air box snorkels to let the bike breath more easily (but the bike is noisier). See Question about ‘ Which engines fit’
4.4 Which silencers are recommended?
The original silencer fitted to the MT500 had a lug on it to support the pannier frame, the MT350 used a similar design, but without the lug. Small holes at the bend below the central mounting bolt onto the frame are repairable.
Replacement MT350 silencers were made of stainless steel; the end can is smooth and has no corrugations on it. Stainless systems made up by Motad and dyno’d for either the MT 350 or dyno’d for the MT500 are available. Other riders have used a Supertrapp exhaust, one has bought exhaust pipe parts- bends and straight parts and has clamped them together, and another has had jigs made to make a larger bore stainless system for his 604 and uses a Remus R30 end can.
5 Engine
5.1 How do I start my MT500?
There is a large reward for anyone who has a universal ‘right answer’ to this. In short, getting a bike to start from cold, just warm or hot requires good bike set up, good technique for that particular bike and a bit of luck too. Getting the right combination of carb, set up and technique takes some dedication with lots of trial and error. Experienced riders believe that technique is the key – ‘Watch and learn grasshopper…’
The best thing to do is read the thread entitled MT500 Starting
http://www.whisp.co.uk/MTRC/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=725&start=0&sid=ce05d7bbfb630a2af5886bafaca0c4f2
You will then see that there are a lot of answers and many combinations of carb (Amal mk2 concentric, Dellorto PHF34GS, Mikuni VM32), cam, and exhaust. Which one is right for your particular bike, only you can find out -but the thread gives you some ideas where to begin.
5.2 Why won’t my MT350 start, it has been standing for a while?
Check the following. Run switch is set to Run, fuel on, enrichener (choke) on, sufficient fuel in tank-some bikes struggle if fuel level is too low, fresh fuel, battery fully charged, try main and Reserve, fuel is clean and flowing freely – open drain on carb float bowl to check, the anti-tilt valve may be stuck or fuel filter clogged, do you have a spark, is everywhere dry. Is your air filter clean? Try kicking over a few times manually before hitting the starter button. Try attaching a battery booster-the starter might crank seemingly OK with the battery, but a boost from another source may help.
Try new spark plug, try teaspoon of fuel directly into cylinder- if it fires then dies, chances are it’s a fuel problem. If it doesn’t run at all, start looking at the electrics. Have you had the tank off and dislodged a connector somewhere? Are the connectors tight in the cowl and on the ignition switch? Is the earth strap at the back of the battery box on tight?
Is your exhaust free, or has some rust partially blocked the silencer?
5.3 How do I change my cam belt/cam belt pulleys?
There is an easy to use guide in the Tutorial section showing how to change your cam belt.
If your bike chews belts, it could be that the pulleys are worn. If you take a few measurements across the top pulley, you may find that it is worn and require replacement. The top pulley ideally needs a bridge puller to remove it. The lower pulley should ideally be removed using a puller gripping on the internal threads on the pulley, some owners get away with a three legged external puller but these can damage the sides of the pulley if a load- spreader of some kind,(jubilee clip) isn’t used. Some owners have just prised it off with their fingers! It all depends on how it was put on – properly with loctite or not.
O-ring seals can be bought by the meter from Simply Bearings, a lot cheaper than the originals- just a dab of silicone or blue Hylomar at each of the ‘grip’ points that don’t work.
5.4 Why doesn’t my bike run smoothly?
Is fuel getting to the carb freely, or is there a partial blockage somewhere-tank, fuel filter, fuel tap, anti-tilt valve? Is fuel fresh and not contaminated, has any water got in your fuel?
Is your air filter clean, breather pipe fitted, carb rubbers intact and seated with no leaks?
Is you carb clean, and your slide diaphragm intact-no pinholes?
Is your HT-lead secure? Many people replace the original metal shrouded spark plug cap with a new plastic one.
Have you checked your oil level?
Have you tested your ignition system? See Tutorial.
Have you checked and cleaned all electrical connectors, including the earth strap
If you’ve done all of these things you may have to swap out components with known good ones to identify the problem.
The exhaust system may have collapsed internally and is partially blocked. Driving a rod into the exhaust has helped for some riders- take care with this one! The original exhaust has a ’Z’ flow rather than a straight through system.
5.5 Why won’t my bike go into neutral?
This can happen if your clutch isn’t adjusted correctly, if your clutch basket is worn or if your bike hasn’t run for a while and the plates are sticky. Also, it is a common problem if your idle speed is a little low. Riding your bike and changing the oil may eliminate the problem, as may blipping your throttle, raising your idle speed a little, or selecting neutral whilst still rolling. Filing ridges off your clutch basket or replacing the clutch basket should also help.
5.6 What is a Sprag clutch and can I change it?
A sprag clutch is part of the starter mechanism. Essentially it is a 70mm (ish) diameter ring, 20mm deep with 20 lobes on the outside of it which, when the starter is not in use, are pulled towards the middle of the ring by a spring running all of the way round the outside of the lobes. When the starter motor spins, it twists the lobes which then stick out and lock the starter to the engine. So when the starter button is pressed, the effect is to turn the engine over. When the engine fires, the starter motor stops turning, the lobes are pulled back inwards by the spring and play no further part. Over a period of time the spring stretches and sometimes one or more of the lobes turns backwards and jams the mechanism. It should turn freely anticlockwise and lock clockwise.
The sprag clutch can be changed and there is a tutorial showing how to do it.
Other suggestions are to use your decompressor, if you have one, when stopping the engine as well as when starting. Also, keep your battery fully charged, a weak battery could cause the engine to kick back and jam the sprag clutch.
5.7 Can I fit an electric start engine to my MT500?
Yes, but it does involve cutting the frame and welding up. It is an Oil In Frame system. See Pete Low’s write up, below (worth noting that he worked for while as a fabricator/welder)
Since I have now modified three 500 Armstrongs to electric start engines, I have learnt a bit more each time I’ve done it.
To some people this may seem a daunting task. But I insist it is not at all difficult. Even if you have little or no metal working experience, it should be possible to find “a man who can”.
First thing you will need is a front engine mount from an MT350.
Then you have to cut the bottom off the bikes front down tube. In doing this you will lose the lower of the two engine mounting holes in the frame.
You can judge how much to cut off by holding the 350 mount up to the frame. You will get to a point where the engine mount will fit, but the cut end may involve the edge of the lower bolt hole and/or the oil outlet pipe.
As the oil outlet pipe is braised in, it’s best to cut out a right angled notch, to remove all trace of braise as it will contaminate any welding and weld back in a clean piece of steel.
The end of the frame tube should slant, so that its front edge is lowest. This enables the oil drain outlet from the cut off section to be salvaged, and welded on at the lowest point. This should line up with an existing opening in the 350 mount.
Having cut off the “push on” type oil outlet, it is an opportunity to fit a threaded spigot. This makes it possible to fit a 90 degree swivel hose fitting which gives the flexible oil pipe an easier approach to the space behind the cam belt housing.
On one frame I have converted I have welded a primary oil filter housing, like the one on the MT350, to the bottom of the frame tube. But this involved extra machining and the purchase of a 350′s gauze filter. On the other two I have just had an outlet spigot machined up to take a 1/2″UNF 90 degree threaded union. This spigot is welded on at the back of the frame tube, just above where it has been shortened, above where the starter motor will be. At the same time I got a new distance tube machined, to weld in where the new mounting hole has to be made, lining up with the upper hole in the 350′s mount.
I have recently realised that the standard Armstrong primary filter can be used. With its bracket cut off, it can sit above the gearbox casing, where its outlet pipe lines up with, and can be connected to the inlet fitting in the crankcase with a very short bit of tube. However it is a threaded fitting on the engine. Push on fittings do exist, I have one. But it might be possible to have the threaded crankcase fitting turned down to convert it to push on. This is the primary filter arrangement on the rare e/s Armstrongs. The filter housing just needs a section of silicon hose slipped over it to stop it clattering on the crank case.
With the frame tube shortened, the 350 engine mount should be bolted in place and all other engine mounting bolts should be in place and tightened. The top holes either side of the 350 mount can now be used as an accurate guide to drill through the frame from each side. These holes then need to be opened out to the right size for the new distance tube.
All these parts can now be tack welded in place. If you are a confident welder, complete the welding yourself, if not, find a friendly welder to do the job. Remember it must be oil tight.
I feel it is important to have the oil drain as low as possible, lower than the oil feed outlet to the engine. That way, any dangerous particles in the oil will collect away from the outlet.
The only other necessity is to relocate the battery tray and fit a larger battery, but this is not difficult.
5.8 Which engines fit into an MT350?
The MT350 uses a Rotax engine that has been used on other bikes. The mounting holes for all of them are the same, so they can be fitted easily. Some CCM engines need the ‘top hat’ spacers fitted from the 350 engine into the swingarm spindle mounting hole. They are only thin top hats but you do need them in to stop unwanted vibration
One option currently available is to buy a brand new electric start 500e engine from commercial suppliers. These engines were made as spares for the American version the US HDMT500e.
Other options include
| Year | Bike | Bore X Stroke | Capacity | Std cam | BHP |
| 1983 | KTM504 MXC | 89.0 x 81.0mm | 504cc | 31.5 at 6500 | |
| 1982-1991 | Armstrong-CCM CMX 560Aprilia Pegaso 600 /Tuareg 600 Wind | 94 X 81mm | 562cc | 805 | 45 at 7000 |
| 1983-84 | Barigo RCB500 | 89.0 X 79.4mm | 494cc | ||
| 1984 | Barigo350 Military | ||||
| 1985 | MT500 | 89 X 77.4mm | 482cc | 665 | 32 |
| 1984-88 | Puch GS350F4T, GC504F4T, GS560F4T600 HWE | ||||
| 1986 | Jawa 500R | 89 X 77.4mm | 482cc | 34 | |
| 1986 | Aprilia ETX 350E | 79.5 X 70.4mm | 349cc | 27 at 7000 | |
| 1987 | Aprilia Tuareg rally 350 | 79.5 X 70.4mm | 349cc | 33 at 7500 | |
| 1987 | Harris Matchless G80 | 494cc | |||
| 1991-95 | MZ500 | 89.0 X 79.4mm | 494cc | 660 (?) | 27 at 6500 revs (Exhaust type A or A1) |
| 34 at 7200 revs (Exhaust type A2) | |||||
| 1993-2000 | MT350e | 79.5 X 70.4mm | 349cc | 667 | 29.5 |
| MT500e | 665 | ||||
| 1994-03 | CCM 604 | 97 X 81mm | 598cc | 670 | 49-52 |
| 2000-01 | CCM 640 | 100 X 81mm | 636cc | ||
| ATK350/500/ 560/600/605 |
.
The manuals section of the forum lists the specs and application of all cams used, 660,665,667,670,675,700,800,805,860,867. NB 675,860,865 are not ‘safe’ cams engine damage can occur if a belt breaks.
In addition to the complete engine, some components are interchangeable. The current Aprilia Mille/Tuono/Falco/Caponord starter also fits the range of engines. It is slightly longer than the standard 350 starter, but a mounting block can be used to accommodate it. Some Aprilia models also use the same switchgear as the MT350.
5.9 How do I fix a slipping clutch?
Clutch adjustment
The correct tool is useful for this, but it can be achieved without the official tool. Loosen the lever end, flip the cable out of the lever, get some lube down it (you don’t need to do this but as you are playing about you might as well).
Five minutes work. Undo the adjustor at the lever end by winding it all the way in, this will help with set up afterwards. Line the adjuster up so the slot is open so you can put the cable back in. On the case you will find 2 big plugs with a groove. Use a 10 pence and open them up. The RH one is the adjuster the left hand one is the slot for the cable and nipple. Feed the new cable through the hole on the top of the case and hook the nipple and cable through the arm by looking through the front port. It can be a bit fiddly and a pair of needle nose pliers will help. Once it is hooked on pull tight and route the cable up to the lever and insert through the slot in the adjuster. Once connected, adjust the clutch through the RH port by undoing the nut while holding the screw with a screwdriver. A 11mm socket held in mole grips will do the job if you don’t have the box spanner. Wind the screw in until you feel some friction then wind back 1/4-1/2 turn and holding the screw in position tighten lock nut.
At lever end adjust until you have 10-12mm of free play. Take it for a ride and adjust lever adjuster until everything is smooth.
You shouldn’t need to adjust the clutch arm (right hand hole in the casing) if it’s just the cable snapped, if it’s been running ok up to now, don’t fiddle with that setting.
If you have done that, fire up, run a short time 1min, pull the clutch lever in 3-4times. Apply front brake and hold revs a bit higher say 2k, pull clutch in, select 1st gear (it shouldn’t stall but WILL probably try to jump forward a bit so be ready for it!!) then set off. Once the bike has been used a bit it will all settle down. Bikes often do this when they have been left neglected for a week or so, but soon settle into being ‘normal’.
Clutch plates can become oil soaked if they have been standing for a while so a good run may improve the action of the clutch.
If the engine has had synthetic oil put in it that might be a cause for slip. An oil change or two may resolve the problem.
If it doesn’t, the clutch can be removed, the springs measured, the plates counted and measured. It has been known for plates to be missing.
The springs should be 34mm. They are about £2.50 each and you need 6 as well as the clutch cover gasket at about £8. If it is just the springs you don’t have the hassle of undoing the big clutch nut. Clutch plates are about £7 each and there should be 8 friction plates 2.6mm thick, 7 steel plates 1.25mm thick and one 1.5mm thick. You also need a new lock tab for the clutch nut.
Once you have the side off the bike (you don’t need to drain the oil, you will get a bit coming out not much, also you don’t need to remove the clutch cable, in fact it’s useful once the cover bolts are out to pull the clutch lever to help pop the cover off, you will need to pry the cover at the starter motor as it gets a bit stuck on it.) you will see the clutch, there are 6 bolts (8mm head (?) work round them when undoing as they are under pressure from the clutch springs, once that cover plate is off you will be faced with the springs.
Measure them and count the number of plates you see through the clutch basket edges.
If the springs are worn the plates may be OK. The only way to actually get to the plates is to open the tab washer and remove the central nut, put 2 clutch springs back opposite each other, get a couple of penny washers and use 2 bolts to compress the springs locking up the clutch and crack off the central nut.
You don’t need to remove the basket just the central bit and the plates (KEEP THEM IN ORDER) watch for bearings (in the main basket if it moves) and spacers between the central bit and the basket. Measure the plate thickness, look for wear. Replace as required, rebuild as per the book, use loctite etc. NB Ensure all of the bolts go through the holes in the gasket!
There is a difference in the standard Rotax clutch against the milspec clutch – we have 8, thinner plates rather than 7 thicker ones, so if you order new ones, check with us first…
Looking at the 500 workshop manual (pages 49,50) it appears the 500 clutch has the same config as the 350 – 8 friction plates, 7 driven plates (1.25mm on the 350) and the outer pressure plate (1.5mm on the 350), but there are differences in the thrust bearing
6 Brakes
.1 How do I bleed the brakes on my MT350?
This relatively straightforward task can be a source of great frustration. The things that are ‘different’ about these bikes is that they have probably been through a fair bit of sand, mud, water and have stood around for a while. Also, note that they have a small ball bearing just below the bleed nipple, which may rust and prevent bleeding, and certainly reverse bleeding if left in place.
If the seals around the pistons in your calliper are struggling against built up grime, you may be trying the impossible, even with a brand new calliper on the front, it still isn’t easy, so give the calliper a good clean and make sure the ball bearing is free/clean. Turning the handle bars to get the most upright position for the calliper, tapping the brake lines to release bubbles, unscrewing the jam nut on the master cylinder to give the maximum travel of the piston, tying back your brake lever and leaving overnight, removing the calliper and raising it above the master cylinder are all techniques that have been used. The bottom line is don’t just expect it to bleed easily with the job done in half an hour- you may have to do the things just mentioned and leave it overnight
Sudden brake failure due to a brake line ballooning under heavy braking has been known and some riders replace the originals with braided brake lines. If you want to get stainless steel brake lines, the front is 1160mm long and the rear is 920mm long.
6.2 How can I improve my MT500 brakes?
The front brake on the MT500 is adequate but needs to be set up correctly. A key point is to ensure that the lever on drum is at 90 degrees to the cable. Also, brake linings on brakes which have not been in regular use can delaminate or come away from the backing plate- a re-line is the only solution.
The other popular option for the MT500 is to fit MT350 forks, which are fully interchangeable, and fit a disc brake.
6.3 Why doesn’t my MT350 front brake light work?
Try changing the brake switch at the bottom of your front brake master cylinder. It’s a widely used component, so you should be able to get one anywhere.
7 Wheels and sprockets
7.1 What tyres/ tubes are recommended? Can they be fitted easily?
Favoured tyres seem to be
Road use-Avon Distanzias
Light off road bias-Metzler Sahara Enduro 3 (original fitment), Heidenau K60
Heavier off road bias- Michelin T63, Continental TKC80
Ultimate road legal, off road-Trelleborg T-644 Army specials or Michelin AC10
Tubes -Vee rubber Ultra Heavy Duty for off-road use
Sizes 90/90 21″ for the front and 4.00 – 18″ for the back. Some riders have fitted 80/90 21″ fronts and others 4.10-18″ rear(beware chain guard clearance)
There has been a change to the way MOT examiners are to interpret the rule that applies to enduro tyres. It used to be that if the spacing between the tread blocks was greater than the size of the tread blocks the tyre would fail an MOT test. The amendment to this rule now states that as long as an enduro tyre is ‘E-marked’ and carries the letters ‘MST’ on the sidewall, the tyre will now pass an MOT test. Be careful, not all FIM approved tyres have MST on the sidewall and so will still fail an MOT. Each product will be identified as to its suitability for road use.
Changing tyres can be done by anyone who can change a bicycle tyre (and if you haven’t done that for a while, get an old one and practice). Buy some 15 inch enduro tyre levers, a bead buddy, not essential but really helps, a tyre valve puller can help, and rim protectors ( piece of plastic old hose-pipe will do) to avoid scratching those rims. Use liquid hand soap (not washing up liquid-too salty) to help the tyre slide on more easily. The tyre have rim locks to secure the bead to the rim, but you may find that the front or both front and rear rim locks are missing. Both tyres should have rim-tape to protect the inner-tubes.
Tyre pressures MT350e 22 psi front 24 rear for road use, 18psi front and rear –off road use.
7.2 Which sprocket combinations work?
The standard MT350 combination is 15/47, standard MT500 combination is 17/47. An MT350 with carb mods can run a 16T front sprocket for road use. For off-road a 14T sprocket helps. With larger engines the maximum you can go to with standard 102 link chain is 17/47. If you go non-standard, you can have anything you like of course. Some riders buy a 104 link chain on the basis that you can always take links out.
7.3 Can I change my wheel bearings? What size are they?
The front wheel has two bearings, which can be drifted out. Suggested techniques are to use a heat gun to warm the hub up before starting to tap out the far bearing. The bearings are standard bearings –you can buy them at a local bearing shop or online for probably half the price you would be charged at your local bike shop. For the small difference in price, go for the bearings with seals
The MT350 rear wheel has 4 bearings in the wheel itself and 3 in the sprocket drive. These can be more troublesome to remove, but with a heat gun, drift and appropriate hammer it can be done. It’s better to replace all bearings with units that have integral seals; it only costs a few pence more. As standard on the MT350, only the outer 2 have seals.
Sizes
MT500 Rear wheel hub 4x 6203
MT500 Rear brake drum 2x 6004
MT350 Front wheel hub 2x 6202
MT350 Rear wheel 2x 6203 suggest replace with 6203 2RS
MT350 Rear wheel 2x 6004 suggest replace with 6004 2RS
MT350 Sprocket drive 3x 6004 suggest replace with 6004 2RS
NB. Watch out for the spacer between two of the bearings
7.4 How do I lift the wheels off the ground?
Your wheels aren’t that firmly on the ground, just rock the legs of your centre-stand one at a time on to a 2 inch thick piece of timber and it’ll raise the wheels easily- you may need a little weight to tip it from one end off the ground to the other.
Another technique is to flick out your side-stand and lower the bike on to it, so that you have one centre-stand leg and the side-stand supporting the bike- it makes chain lubing easier.
8 Electrical
8.1 How can I improve my headlight?
The mod involves wiring a couple of relays into the headlight loom and upgrading the bulb to a halogen 55/60w.The light becomes a crisp white light instead of the yellow dull glow before.
From Bigyam-I’m no electrician but it took me about 2 1/2 -3hrs it’s fairly simple to do and well worth the time. Parts cost me in the region of about £14 including the bulb from vehicle wiring products at Ilkeston in Derby http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/home/homepage.php They are very helpful and they will deliver.
All the wiring diagrams are on this site http://www.ebbo.org/headlamp_relays.php
in the [b]NOTES.[b] section he says that there is no negative return from the bulb to the relays, there isn’t, but I found Ii had to connect it back to the original [grey ]wire
The only thing I can fault now is the beam pattern, it’s not designed for a halogen bulb and it’s not brill, so if anyone knows of a suitable replacement lens please let me know, a RD125lc looks similar. PLEASE NOTE: – I DO NOT TAKE ANY RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY HARM THAT MAY OCCUR TO YOU OR YOUR VEHICLE ATTEMPTING THIS MOD. YOU DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK
Note there are two types of headlight used see thread http://whisp.co.uk/MTRC/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=450&start=0
NB The festoon is not powered and serves no purpose whatsoever
8.2 Is there enough power to fit heated gloves/accessories?
Yes there is BUT, if you go for the heated boots, trousers, jacket, gloves you’ll overload the system. The MT350 generator has the capacity to produce between 60w to 105w, over and above power needed to run headlight, sidelight, brake light etc.
It is advisable to fit a relay when wiring up accessories. They take away heavy loads from switch gear and are designed to cycle many thousands of times. Your switch gear is not and as a result in a very short space of time the contacts erode leading to a high resistance in the circuit. Using a relay removes the heavy current across the switch which will mean a) the switch gear lasts much longer and also you get less lost current in the system as there is only a tiny control current across the switch contacts, the relay contacts take the majority and are designed for heavy current flow without the losses you get in normal automotive switches.
If you want a demonstration of just how much current is lost, convert your headlamp circuit so that the bike’s switch gear only controls relays with the main power feed for the lamp feeding direct from the power source, to the relay, to the lamp. You’ll notice a big improvement in brightness of the head lamp.
You do need a fuse in the circuit as this is the only current limiting device in the system, this should go in the main power feed to the relay.
It is possible to set your bike up using 3 phase power from your generator, thereby gaining more power.
8.3 What should I do if my bike isn’t charging?
The first thing to do here is to check that the battery terminals are tight and the frame earth is tight. Start the bike and with a meter set on 20v dc setting and put the leads on the battery terminals and the reading should be 13-15 volts if not try another rect/regulator. It is the more common item that breaks down.
You can take a reading with the ignition off first and then with the engine running to see if the voltage increases. The voltage should be 13.8v or above, engine running with lights on
Test the generator’s resistance see Tutorial on Electrical testing.
9 What Workshop Tools do I need?
Workshop tools in addition to OEM tool kit which ideally should stay on the bike
Set of metric spanners – 8, 10, 13, 17mm minimum or up to 30 ideally. Useful to have 2 of each.
Metric sockets, as above, 1 set including 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2″.
1/2″ breaker bar, socket extension bars, ratchet to fit sockets
9/16” deep socket for primary oil filter
Metric hex (allen key) sockets
Metric long allen keys with ball end
Torque wrench
Set of HSS drill bits
Set of good screwdrivers (including No.1 Philips)
Good set of files
Set of feeler guages
Set of drifts
Centre punch
12″ steel rule
Small jemmy/ crow bar
Soft headed hammer
Grease gun
Long tyre levers, Bead buddy, tyre paste/talcum powder, tyre valve puller
Pliers, Needle nose pliers, Circlip pliers for external and internal circlips, Side cutters
a brass wire brush, less damaging and the wire can be used for poking things
Cans of WD40, Penetrating oil, Electrical cleaner, carb cleaner
Tin of copper slip
Multimeter, battery booster
Oil drain can
Brake bleeding kit hand lamp
Paper Clip for hooking onto clutch cable on and a small torch
Box of assorted metric nuts and bolts mainly M5, M6 and M8
Assorted zip ties
Latex type gloves
Bag of rags
Crank locking bolt (should be in bike tool kit really)
Fly wheel puller, Bottom (crank) pulley puller, Clutch locking tool, Slide hammer – for cam removal
Valve spring compressor
Luxury but HUGELY useful items:
bike lift
Compressor
Pillar drill
Other
Commercial Parts List will tell you what parts should be there and also their names, part numbers and often sizes, whether loctite is required or not. Downloadable from forum files
